Materials:
600 yds fingering weight per pair of socks (prefer 300 of color A and 300 of color B)
Size 3mm crochet hook
Stitch marker or safety pin (if you choose to mark beginning of rounds)
Darning needle to weave in ends of yarn
This pattern will look it’s best if you choose two colors to do the sock in.
Sizes:  Small (Medium, Large, Mens)

Toe:
Note to editors, I was having some trouble with getting this the right size for each size toe, I think this pattern below will be right, but if you are finding that the stitches you end with are too many or too few please let me know and I will re crochet it and work it out.
With color A chain 9
Round 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 6 ch spaces, 4 sc in the last ch
- Turn to working on the opposite side of the chain stitches
- Sc in the free loop of the next 6 ch spaces, 2 sc in the last (20 sc)

Round 2: Do not join, just continue to work around.
- 2 sc in previous sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next two sc,
sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc (24 sc)

Round 3: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next two sc, sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc (29 sc)

Round 4: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next two sc, sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc (32 sc) Stop here for a Small (rows 5-7 sc around – place marker at beg. if needed)

Round 5: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc in next two sc, sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc in next sc (36 sc)  Stop here for a size Medium (rows 6 and 7 sc around – place marker if needed)

Round 6: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc in next two sc, sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc in next sc (40 sc) Stop here for a size Large (row 7 sc around – place marker if needed)

Round 7: 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next two sc, sc in next 18 sc, 2 sc in next sc (45 sc) This completes st increases for a size Mens.

Round 8: Sc one time around decreasing 2(1, 0, 0) stitches relative to the size sock you are doing.  Your goal is to end up with a multiple of 5 to start the entrelac. 30(35, 40, 45)

Starting Entrelac Triangles:
- You will be making little triangles through Tunisian crochet stitches so during the first round you will have little points sticking up.  Then we will be building cubes nested in the triangles.  Every round you should change back and forth between color A and B.

Switching to color B
Editor Note: this may look better if the last loop pulled up on the single crochet was with the next color…..what do you think?  I have also tried to experiment with gage as I think my Tunisian is looser and you may need to go down a hook size….what did you find?

1. Insert hook in the next sc, and draw through a loop (2 loops on the hook)
2. YO, pull through the first loop, YO, pull through both loops.
3. Pull up a loop through the vertical bar made by the Tunisian st, pull up a loop through the next sc from the previous round (3 loops on the hook)
4. YO, pull through 1 loop, YO, pull through 2 loops twice
5. Pull up a loop through the 2 vertical bars previously made, pull up a loop through the next sc from previous round (4 loops on the hook)
6. YO, pull through 1 loop, YO, pull through 2 loops three times
7. Pull up a loop through the 3 vertical bars previously made, pull up a loop through the next sc from previous round (5 loops on the hook)
8. YO, pull through 1 loop, YO, pull through 2 loops four times
9. Pull up a loop through the 4 vertical bars previously made, pull up a loop through the next sc from previous round (6 loops on the hook)
10. YO, pull through 1 loop, YO, pull through 2 loops 5 times
11. Binding off – pick up a loop under the vertical bar as before, but this time slip stitch it, and repeat for the other 5 vertical bars (this fills in the gaps in the Tunisian and gets your stitch in the right place for the next triangle.

Repeat instructions 1 through 11 till you get around to where you started.  The last triangle worked DO NOT work the bind off instructions (step 11).

Cube Section:
Change to color A
1. Starting at the top of a finished triangle (for the first one, the bind off row hasn’t been worked, thus explaining why you are at the top and not the bottom).  Pull up a loop through the next 5 slipped stitches (for the first cube pull the loops up through the Tunisian vertical bars), and pull up one stitch from the edge of the previous triangle (7 loops on hook).
2. (YO, pull through 2 loops) six times.
3. Pull up loop through next five vertical Tunisian bars, pull loop through one stitch from the edge of the previous triangle (7 loops on hook).
4. (YO, pull through 2 loops) six times.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 three more times and then follow the steps for binding off the cube.  This will create a cube or square which you will be building on the next round.

Binding Off – pull up loop onto hook through next vertical bar, and slip st, repeat this 4 more times, sl st in first st (top point of the previous triangle or cube)

Continuing in color A and repeat steps for constructing the cube all the way around.
Again, at the last block, do not complete the step for binding the stitches off.

Instep:
Pretty much same thing as you did the previous round, but you are building on cubes, not triangles.
Every round switch back and forth from color A to color B
1. Starting at the top of a finished cube (for the first one, the bind off row hasn’t been worked, thus explaining why you are at the top and not the bottom).  Pull up a loop through the next 5 slipped stitches (for the first cube pull the loops up through the Tunisian vertical bars), and pull up one stitch from the edge of the previous cube (7 loops on hook).
2. (YO, pull through 2 loops) six times.
3. Pull up loop through next five vertical Tunisian bars, pull loop through one stitch from the edge of the previous cube (7 loops on hook).
4. (YO, pull through 2 loops) six times.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 three more times.  This will create a cube or square which you will be building on the next round.

Binding Off – pull up loop onto hook through next vertical bar, and slip st, repeat this 4 more times, sl st in first st (top point of the previous cube).
Continuing in color A repeat steps for constructing the cube all the way around.
Again, at the last block, do not complete the step for binding the stitches off.

Continue to build blocks on top of each other till you get to the bend in your ankle.  Here you will be putting in the triangles to the top of the cubes previously made so that you can sc 1 round even and then construct the heel.

Ending Entrelac Triangles:
Switch to the next color (ideally your pattern would allow your color change to be color B, so that you can use color A on the heel sts to match the toe).
1. Pull up a loop in the next five slip stitches (for the first one it will be through the vertical bars of the previous Tunisian row), pull up a loop through one stitch from the edge of the previous cube (7 loops on the hook)
2. (YO, pull through 2 loops) four times, YO, pull through three loops.
3. Pull up a loop through the next four vertical bars, not the decrease, pull up a loop through one stitch from the edge of the previous cube (6 loops on the hook)
4. (YO, pull through 2 loops) three times, YO, pull through all three loops.
5. Pull up a loop through the next three vertical bars, not the decrease, pull up a loop through one stitch from the edge of the previous cube (5 loops on the hook)
6. (YO, pull through 2 loops) two times, YO, pull through all three loops.
7. Pull up a loop through the next two vertical bars, not the decrease, pull up a loop through one stitch from the edge of the previous cube (4 loops on the hook)
8. YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, pull through 3 loops
9. Pull up a loop through the next vertical bar, not the decrease, pull up a loop through one stitch from the edge of the previous cube (3 loops on the hook)
10. YO, pull through all 3 loops
11. Slip stitch in the top point of the previous block

Repeat steps 1-11 around till you have filled in all the triangle spaces.
Place a stitch marker if you want to and sc one round through top edges of previous triangles that were made.

Sc one round with same color the triangles ended with.
Stitch Count:  You should have 30(35, 40, 45) sc around.

Heel Bottom:
These instructions make a heel cup, worked in rows, and attaches to the Tunisian entrelac.
Change colors to next color in pattern, slip stitch to join end of sc round, ch 1, turn
Row 1 & 2: sc 12(14, 16, 18), ch 1, turn
Row 3: sc dec, sc 8(10, 12, 14), sc dec, ch 1, turn
Row 4 & 5: sc 10(12, 14, 16), ch 1, turn
Row 6: sc dec, sc 6(8, 10, 12), sc dec, ch 1, turn
Row 7 & 8: sc 8(10, 12, 14), ch 1 turn
Row 9: sc dec, sc 4(6, 8, 10), sc dec, ch 1, turn
Row 10 & 11: sc 6(8, 10, 12), ch 1, turn
Row 12: sc dec, sc 2(4, 6, 8), sc dec (4, 6, 8, 10 sts left), ch 1

Turning Heel:
You will be working back and forth across the decrease edge you just made attaching the heel bottom  with slip stitches at the end of each row to the original sc round done after finishing the entrelac triangles.
Row 1: along the decrease edge where you ended slip stitch 8 stitches ending at the original sc round.  Join with sc, turn.
Row 2: sc 8 in the previous slipped stitches, sc 4(6, 8, 10) in the 4 sc at the end of the heel, slip stitch 8 stitches ending at the other side of the original sc round. Join with sc, turn
Row 3: sc 8 st in slip stitches just made, continue to sc around, join with slip st, turn
(20, 22, 24, 26) sc being worked back and forth
Row 4: sc 20(22, 24, 26), join with slip st, turn (first sc should be in the second stitch from the hook.
Repeat row 4 back and forth till you have 30(35, 40, 45) sts total; including stitches on the sc round done previously.
The slip st, are creating decreases.

Cuff:
Your last slip stitch  that connects the heel to the instep stitches will be the new starting place and you will begin working in the round again, not in rows.
Round 1: sc around, you should have 30(35, 40, 45) sts
Round 2: this will be the same as the instructions for the “Starting Entrelac Triangles”
Round 3: follow the same instructions for “Cube Sections”
Round 4: follow the same instructions for “Instep” (repeat this section 4 times)
Round 5: follow same instructions for “Ending Entrelac Triangle”
Round 6: sc around in edge of triangles (this should be the same color as the triangles)

Change colors (if you worked the heel in color A than you should be switching to color A now).

Crochet Ribbing:
Bphdc – Back post half double crochet
Fphdc – Front post half double crochet
Round 1: Bphdc in first sc in the round, and fphdc in second stitch.
Repeat 1 round, slip st to join, chain 2

Round 2: bphdc on top of the bphdc, and fphdc on top of the fphdc
Repeat around, slip st to join, ch 2
Repeat this round 2-3 more times depending on how long you want the ribbing to be.
Last round, slip st to join, and weave in all ends.

© Jen Bianchi  2011  All rights reserved.

Thank you all for the help and I hope you all have had fun making this pattern.
Swong, and Gumby28 (Ravelry users at www.ravelry.com)

You choose your own color to be hand dyed into a yarn for you. You will have your very own dye lot in a solid color of your choosing.  If you are very specific about the color you will need to send me a sample and I will do my best to match it.

A rainbow just like I would imagine the brightness of the first one God created.  Lovely, vivid, self striping colors will add a special POP to any project you knit or crochet.

Pick any three colors (each is 30 yards) to make a small striped or Fair Isle project.  Great for hats, mittens, small bags, or children’s socks.

Materials:
DK weight
200 yds
Size 6 DPN needles

Pattern:
Cast on 32 stitches (knit on cast on)
Row 1:  K2 p2 across the 1 DPN
Divide onto 3 dpn’s

Join and begin knitting in the round
Round 2: k2, p2
Round 3: k2, p2, (K2 tog, don’t take off, knit first stitch, take both sts off together), p2
Round 4: k2, p2

Cable Pattern:
Row 1:  K2 p2 across the 1 DPN
Round 2: k2, p2
Round 3: k2, p2, (K2 tog, don’t take off, knit first stitch, take both sts off together), p2
Round 4: k2, p2

Knit cable pattern for 5.5 inches (or to desired length)
On round 4, bind off for the thumb hole as follows:

P 2 tog, place the stitch just purled back on left needle
Purl that stitch and the next one together, and place the one stitch back on the left needle
Repeat this till 6 stitches are bound off.
Knit in pattern to end of round
Using the cast on method you choose, cast on 6 sts and join with beginning of the round

Continue in cable pattern for 5 more repeats (20 total rows)
Bind off loosely.

Thumb:
Pick up and knit 16 sts around the bind off and cast on sts of the thumb hole.
Knit 6 rounds even, bind off.

Weave in ends and enjoy.

The larger case holds many many needles of different sizes and lengths.  I have three or more needles in each pocket and there is still room for more!  I can more easily find the size that I want for the specific project.  It is also a nice size to take along with you on a trip or to your local yarn shop to start a project and have all your supplies with you.  You will really enjoy this case!

This case holds a good number of needles.  I have five needles for every size and it works great.  This is the best solution out there for keeping your DPN’s organized.  A flap folds down over the top of the needles before rolling the case to secure the needles in their slot.  You can choose from any colors or patterns that you like  Contact me if you would like a specific color or fabric to be used.  The needles are not included in the case though.  You can choose from a ribbon tie or a hook and loop closure.